AFFECTUS 
Human multifacetedness revealed by SNS
Many of you probably know the manga “Yu Yu Hakusho.” The manga is written and illustrated by Yoshihiro Togashi, which supported the golden age of “Weekly Shōnen Jump” in the 1990s, the serialization ended in 1994. However, it is still popular even after more than 35 years. In December 2020, a live-action series of “Yu Yu Hakusho” was announced on Netflix to prove its popularity, and Japan’s proud manga was transmitted to the world.
I like one of the characters Shinobu Sensui that appeared in “Yu Yu Hakusho” (I’m curious who will play it in the live-action show). I refrain from giving details to those who have not read this manga. Let me tell you that it is fascinating that Shinobu Sensui has a multifaceted nature, his perspective and words spoken from that multifacetedness have the appeal of declaring its actions as evil.
Human beings cannot be described in one word. It’s not just about the world of manga, but it’s also true today, where we live. TikTok should now be added to Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. I’m assumed there are few people who spend their modern life without using any of these SNS. I think it is rare, especially in the young generation.
However, as I experience SNS, I gradually become aware of it. The world view is felt as if the SNS itself has a personality, and users are required to behave in a way that suits the world of the SNS. The world view is different between Twitter and Instagram, and you can feel the difference in the posts sent by users. For example, I use both Instagram and Twitter, but the world of Instagram feels so dazzling to me that I spend an overwhelming amount of time on Twitter.
On the other hand, many users enjoy the world of both Twitter and Instagram, and SNS has revealed the multifaceted nature of human beings and proved that it is interesting content. It’s no wonder those who like tranquil and beautiful landscape photography love horror movies that have cruel horror-struck one after another. I wouldn’t be surprised to see someone dressed like a “Craig Green” constructal clothes today who hated avant-garde clothes until yesterday (whether it’s available on the market or not). Inconsistent ー that exactly what human beings are.
It was SNS that made it interesting to reveal one’s multifacetedness so that one person has multiple personalities. I also feel this phenomenon of realizing in the world of fashion. I would like to mention two brands that were announced at the FW21 Milan Men’s Collection.
Invisible trends appear
A phenomenon that seems to have begun to reveal another personality that one person had hidden. The first time I felt the phenomenon appeared in the fashion scene was FW20 Men’s season. It’s not big enough to be called a big wave. But it certainly feels. What kind of phenomenon is that it announces a design in the opposite direction to the design that symbolizes the brand.
At first glance, there is no sense of unity that can be called a trend. For example, a brand specializing in minimal design shifts to a design that pushes decorativeness to the front. And a brand specializing in printing and embroidery shifts to an undecorated design with color development centered on gray and beige. This is because they are different in appearance.
However, when I focus on the phenomenon of “design shift in the opposite direction,” it brings a sense of unity. For the past few years, as I continued to observe and consider the fashion scene, I felt a mysterious feeling about the phenomenon that appeared in the SS21 Men’s collection. It can be called an invisible trend.
Why they change their signature design? Moreover, to the opposite vector. The question that remains in me draws attention to the brand that has been riding the wave of the phenomenon. The mystery always attracts people’s hearts.
Samuel Ross begins the game with silhouette and style
“A-COLD-WALL” has moved from London to Milan since the SS21 season, which I felt the scent of the future and the street from the first time I saw it. The collection presented by designer Samuel Ross during the London era is an image of a young man who has time-leaped from the future to the present, wearing modern streetwear and walking around the city, keeping the sensibilities cultivated in the future.
When Ross moves to Milan, he shifts his iconic street style. From the futuristic street style to a contemporary tailored style with a clean taste. It was a surprising change. Perhaps some fans of “A-COLD-Wall” have doubts about this change in Ross. It’s no wonder you’re wondering about the changes that abandon your style.
But I was feeling the evolution of Ross’s changes. The intricate details shown in London have been suppressed, the sophistication of the silhouette of the clothes has been refined, and the chic beauty that combines the sophisticated silhouettes blends in with the scent of workwear, ending in a mere tailored style. A man who grew up on the streets of London had the skills to show off his elegance in Milan. I was very excited about the surprise.
And then, Ross shows further evolution. At the FW21 collection held in Milan last month, he unveiled a design that mixes the old style of the London era with the new style of “A-COLD-WALL” that he showed last season.
It emerged a style with a stronger street color and workwear scent than in the SS20 season while inheriting the chic beauty shown last time in black and white monotone colors. The number of tailored jackets themselves has been reduced from the previous time. Dyeing the street style of “A-COLD-WALL” with elegance, Ross has re-evolved into a style that was once left behind.
I don’t know why he changed the design now. Did he feel the trend from street to elegance, keep up with the times and update his own design, choosing Milan as the right place for the new style? Was there such a strategic design? This will remain a mystery unless I interview with Ross.
However, in Ross’s challenge, who boldly changed the symbolic design that raised his reputation, I felt that it was a fashion spirit that challenged newness. The time would come when the designer would be challenged to renew even his own sensibility.
“Sunnei” also abandons its favorite style
And there is a brand in Milan that shows even more mysterious changes than “A-COLD-WALL.” “Sunnei” by the designer duo of Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo.
It was four years ago that I first got to know about “Sunnei.” Their FW17 collection is a clean and boy style worn by intelligent and elegant boys. However, I was impressed by the fact that it had a strong habit that was not limited to cleanliness. A boy who is repulsed by being said to be well-bred, hates to dress properly and neatly, intentionally puts an unbalanced look in volume and styling, and enjoys the appearance of people laughing at it. That was the impression I had of “Sunnei” for the first time.
Since then, I’ve been paying attention to the “Sunnei” collection, and the description of clean and pure has always come to mind. Nevertheless, This “Sunnei” also shows a change to abandon the clean and boy style that should be a characteristic. It started in the SS21 collection; this FW21 season is even more mysterious.
Indeed, the colors are blue, green, and white, the form of the clothes is simple, and the styling is just as simple. Although these looks are beautiful and clean, they gave me a completely different feeling from the boy style.
Insanity lay deep inside him, who looked like a pure boy, and now it has awakened. However, in order to prefer simple and clean clothes, he had him create a “simple avant-garde” designed for his madness. Pure and crazy, simple and avant-garde ー a mysterious collection of contradictions was being shown.
I felt a slight embarrassment. The beautiful style based on the casual basic wear they showed us before should match one of the trends that the COVID-19 has made it more common to live indoors, relax, and elegant. But, as if ignoring such a trend, “Sunnei” changed their favorite style and began to take their own path.
Abandon the style that they are good at and shift to the opposite design. This invisible trend, which showed “Sunnei” as well as “A-COLD-WALL,” may still be unpopular with fans. To be honest with me, the old style is much more attractive. On the other hand, the bright colors and simple form that are supposed to make you feel beautiful, these gave me an impression of an avant-garde atmosphere somehow; the opposite of them. I’m attracted to this distorted sensation and feel fresh. In other words, as a result, I take the change of “Sunnei” positively.
Fashion affirms that human beings have contradictions
When a brand gains popularity, it creates a unique style with strong originality. People are attracted to it and become fans of the brand. At one point, the brand may abandon the style that has been acclaimed by the brand and make new changes, moving away from the love of its fans. I strongly feel the phenomenon recently. I don’t know if the changes of the times made it so, or if it was due to some change that happened to the designer himself, or both.
But now it attracts me as a quiet trend. And favorably.
I think human beings are contradictory creatures. It should not necessarily be summarized in one description. Human beings aren’t that simple, and sometimes they’re disappointed when they look different, and they’re sure to be happy sometimes. “A-COLD-WALL” and “Sunnei” prove that human beings are multifaceted and interesting. And it seems to be a projection of the present age, which can be said to be the heyday of SNS.
When I got to know about the process by which Shinobu Sensui, who appeared in the “Yu Yu Hakusho” mentioned at the beginning, fell into the darkness, I was even more attracted to him. And in the story, it wasn’t human beings who were able to snuggle up to his thoughts. It also attracts me to Shinobu Sensui.
Fashion beautifully expresses the contradictions what human beings have. Milan had the origin of fashion. It was the young designers who taught me that.
The collection scene moves to Paris. What kind of people do brands gathering in Paris express in fashion?
