In this seventh issue, we present warew, a brand that embodies the traditional Japanese    “harmonized way of life” through beauty. Marco Piacentini, an investor and importer who fell in love with the brand, has been distributing it around the world, with a particular focus on Europe. The brand is 100% made in Japan, from the product to packaging, and its guiding principle is to provide a balanced lifestyle through skincare. Piacentini says that “J-beauty is deeply rooted in health, social expression, and human dignity,” and that he is fascinated by the ritualistic beauty treatments passed down from generation to generation. We asked Piacentini, who also runs the Japan Pavilion at Cosmoprof, the world’s largest cosmetics trade show, to speak to his heart’s content about J-beauty.

Marco Piacentini
Born in Crema, northern Italy. Received Master of Science in Chemical Engineering from Polytechnique of Milan, a PhD in Technical Science from ETH Zurich, and an MBA from SDA Bocconi Business School. He studied environmental catalysis as a researcher at ETH Zurich, and then in 2007 joined an international skin care and personal care product packaging company as Chief Innovation Officer. Piacentini has worked as a Chief Innovation Officer since 2011 and has been Managing Director of Eurofins Scientific Group and National Leader (CEO) of Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care Italy.

Keiko Suyama
Born in Tokyo and has lived in Paris for 20 years. She holds an MBA in Brand Management from INSTITUT FRANCAIS DE LA MODE. In 2010, she established Dessigne, a consulting company specializing in brand strategy, sales and communication, from Japan to the European market. In 2016, she started a conceptual project called “Bijo,” curating J-Beauty and lifestyle brands. She has clients in some 150 stores across 20 countries, from major department stores such as Harrods, Le Bon Marché, Ritz Paris, and Sephora.

The traditional Japanese philosophy of a “harmonized way of life”

–First of all, please tell us about warew.

Marco Piacentini: The philosophy of warew is to embody the traditional Japanese “harmonized way of life”. It is a community of people who are conscious of balance, love, respect, and awareness to live, and we have found these values to be at the core of traditional Japanese culture. Skin is the external part of our body, it is the organ through which we get in contact with the world. Skin represents our emotions, it speaks to our feelings, it reflects our health. Therefore, skin is the expression of our values, our harmony. This is why the people at warew have chosen the skin as the organ to focus on in conveying the brand’s philosophy and values.

–How did you encounter warew?

Piacentini: warew was born in 2014 in a Japanese company in Yokohama, Japan. I was introduced to warew during my first visit to Japan in 2016 as a guest of the Japanese government and was soon eager to spread it to the world. The primary motivation for me was the hearts and minds of the people making the products. In the midst of digitalization and AI, warew is made by human hands, for human beings.

–Can you tell us about the brand’s best-selling and signature products?

Piacentini: We have two best sellers: the Double Cleansing Set and the warew Eye Cream. The Double Cleansing set provides an extraordinary deep cleansing while also being gentle and respectful of sensitive skin. Results are immediately appreciable in terms of skin becoming brighter, with even tones. This high efficacy is achieved thanks to the excellent products we manufacture in-house as key ingredients. Natural essential oils are also used to create delicate scents that offer aromatherapy while washing the skin. The warew Eye Cream is appreciated for its matte texture, immediate brightening and firming effects that improve eye contour, skin sagging, dark circles, and fine lines. Beyond that, our signature products are the warew Emulsions (we have three kinds: Aqua, Moist and Rich) and the serums. These products are packed inside unique packaging designs which represent Shiromuku, traditional Japanese bride dress. Said packaging won the 2014 Gold Medal Pentawards for cosmetics packaging, and individual pieces were displayed in a museum and are placed inside their catalog.

J-Beauty is deeply rooted in values such as health, social expression and human dignity

–Every country has its own beauty rituals; why do you think J-Beauty in particular captivated you?

Piacentini: In my personal opinion, many countries have habits, but only a few have rituals. Of these, I believe that Japan has the best structured rituals as a method and lifestyle. Rituals are solid, consistent, and can be passed from generation to generation, inherited, expressed, and exported. Furthermore, J-Beauty is deeply rooted in values such as health, social expression, and human dignity. Each step is completed and carefully detailed in a repetitive manner. This is why J-Beauty is not just “Made in Japan” but is imbued with Japanese culture and values.

–How do you define J-Beauty?

Piacentini: J-Beauty describes the various sets of traditions and methods of daily personal care that originated in Japan and developed over centuries. The peculiarity of these methods and traditions, compared to Western beauty for example, is the preventive and holistic approach. Preventive because skin and personal care are taught to Japanese children from an early age, before concerns of skin aging arise. Skincare is a common-sense habit thought to keep skin in good condition, rather than an attempt to erase signs of aging or emulate a beauty standard. And holistic because in Japan, skincare is part of a wider spectrum of health care. It is not a vain act— it is conscious self-care that has positive effects on the overall health of the body.

–Why do you think J-beauty is gaining popularity nowadays?

Piacentini: Back in 2016 during a global fair at Cosmoprof Bologna, the largest of its kind in the world, in a public speech I said “J-Beauty will grow stronger while K-Beauty takes off.” That was probably one of the first times the J-Beauty concept was used in front of a large audience, and at the time was quite a bold statement. A Japanese delegation was in the audience, and that’s why the Japanese Government invited me to visit Japan the same year, in July 2016. I still feel the same way. Japan is one of the countries with the highest number of cosmetic companies and manufacturers in the world. This means there are a lot of positive substrates to create outstanding, nice products. Shiseido and Kao are two giants, but they represent only a fraction of the made in Japan offerings in terms of cosmetics and personal care. And the last reason is that Japan is recognized as a mystical and premium country. China is mass market, Korea is marketing and humor, and Japan is premium and luxury. Of course, these ideas are stereotypes, but they are very common in the Western countries. So it is understandable that there is an immediate curiosity and interest in J-Beauty.

–What has been the response from the users of warew?

Piacentini: Our flagship store in Milan has a strong customer retention rate. Customers return because they feel their skin is improving and they know they will always receive customized support. We don’t just sell products, we also offer an experience: we offer an ongoing after-sales service of personalized skin counseling, and we try to listen to feedback and suggestions. When we opened our flagship store, we were the first in Europe to create a J-Beauty experiential center. Customers have been very positive and appreciate the opportunity to try this kind of experience.

—Finally, please share with us your vision of the future.

Piacentini: We are today already one of the most important importers of J-Beauty in the EU. We also plan and operate the Japan Pavilion at Cosmoprof, the world’s largest cosmetics trade fair held in Bologna. We will pay our successes back with social actions to improve the quality of life in our community. We are also launching new services such as warew Academy, which teaches skin care techniques and self-development. We are also investing in sports events to promote gender equality, starting with golfing with the warew Challenge Cup. We are also investing in cultural events to represent Japanese lifestyle through its artists and craftsmen. We aim to create wellness and respect for the future generations.

Direction Keiko Suyama
Translation Elie Inoue

The post J-Beauty report from Europe Vol. 7: Through warew, an investor shares Japanese philosophy with the world through J-Beauty appeared first on TOKION - Cutting edge culture and fashion information.

Suyama is a driving force in J-Beauty abroad, promoting the best of Japanese beauty products in the UK and Europe. Around 2010, she started representing brands in sales, commercial and branding roles, and in 2016 she launched Bijo;, a Japanese beauty and lifestyle brand. Bijo; has been steadily growing, with a permanent booth at PANTECHNICON in London and the Bon Marché department store in Paris, and is now beginning to expand its worldview even further. Biën; delivers a uniquely Japanese aesthetic expression of “beauty in daily life” through its products, spaces, and services. We sat down with Suyama to hear about the concept and outlook of Biën;, which offers a J-Beauty experience in a refreshing atmosphere with natural light streaming through the atrium.

Keiko Suyama
Born in Tokyo and has lived in Paris for 20 years. She holds an MBA in Brand Management from Institut Français de la Mode. In 2010, she established Dessigne, a consulting company specializing in brand strategy, sales and communication between Japan and the European market. In 2016, she started a conceptual project called “Bijo,” curating J-Beauty and lifestyle brands. She now has clients in some 150 stores across 20 countries, including such department stores as Harrods, Le Bon Marché, Ritz Paris, and Sephora. In November 2022, she opened the showroom and concept store Biën;, where customers can experience Japanese beauty.

Beyond surfaces, a holism— the Japanese concepts of internal beauty, beauty of manners, and functional beauty.

–How did you come up with the name “Biën;”?

Keiko Suyama : The word “Biën;” is composed of the Japanese words “Bi” 美 (beauty) and “ën” [which can be read as] 縁・円・苑(link, circle, space)— we hope that visitors will be able to encounter various kinds of beauty and make a link between them. The word “beauty” here does not refer only to external beauty, but also Japanese concepts of beauty such as inner beauty, beauty of manners, and functional beauty, which we aim to offer visitors to experience.

–What kind of experience can visitors expect at Biën;?

Suyama: We offer appointments Monday through Wednesday so that we can take our time to explain our products and allow customers to try out our beauty products. During these appointments we welcome our customers to a counter made of beautiful Japanese cypress imported from the Shirakawa Village, where we offer Japanese tea and sweets. We emphasize hospitality, rooted in a culture of courteous and attentive service, above our products. Additionally, on the 2nd floor is a multipurpose space, where visitors can experience Japanese culture through a variety of workshops such as self-massage seminars, furoshiki (wrapping cloth) classes, and herbal medicine lessons with experts. Biën; also functions as a showroom, so when clients and companies visit, we hope we can impart a deeper understanding of our products by explaining them in this space which was designed with Japanese beauty in mind.

–It seems that you’re very particular about open space and installations.

Suyama: Biën;’s co-founder and creative director Hoshino did the interior design, furnishing the shelves, lampshades, and chairs with Japanese products. The store is divided into two spaces based on the theme of yin and yang, with the “yin” space on the left side for lifestyle products and artworks, and the “yang” space on the right for beauty and wellness products. We are dedicated to creating a space with items that embody the refined beauty of Japan.

–Can you tell us a bit about the products you offer?

Suyama: The concept of Biën; is beauty, clothing, food, and housing. The beauty aspect is focused J-Beauty, and we carry products that combine ancient Japanese wisdom and the latest technology, including those by Rey Tokyo and Shikohin, featured previously in our series [for TOKION]. In addition to material and product quality, surfaces are  also important. For example, the packaging design of RUHAKU, which makes use of the herb gettou, has been redesigned for the foreign market. Innovative Japanese products such as YA-MAN” and Slim Care have been particularly well received.

In the clothing department, there are items made from uniquely Japanese cloth, including the Kyoto Nishijin textile “Hosoo”, the Arimatsu shibori “Suzusan”, and Imabari towels.

In the way of food, Biën; follows a theme of “Bishoku Dogen (美食同源 ),” which integrates traditions of beauty and cuisine by way of organic Japanese tea blends and collagen beauty drinks sourced by Bijo. Inner beauty is a keyword that has been attracting attention in Europe in recent years, and Biën; also believes that in order to be beautiful and healthy, it is important to pay attention to what we put inside our bodies.

The theme of Biën;’s lifestyle space is “beauty in use”. We have carefully selected products that combine delicate appearances with an exquisite and functional beauty achieved by the handwork of craftspeople. These include tea containers by Kaikado, tea ware by Asahiyaki— which has been in production for 16 generations— and flower baskets by the bamboo craftsman Kohchosai Kosuga. Nakagawa Mokkougei’s traditional Japanese cypress wine cooler is one of our most popular products, and an essential item for the French dining table, contrasting its traditional Japanese design. We also regularly hold solo exhibitions of writers and artists, and hope that the space will become a place where products and people can build relationships with each other.

Nurturing “Biën;” as a place to give a voice to leaders, Japanese artists, craftspeople, and brands.

–[At the time of this interview] one and a half months have passed since the opening. What is your current impression?

Suyama: We have a lot of customers from Paris who are interested in J-Beauty and Japanese products. The permanent Bijo; booth at the Bon Marché department store is often crowded, so customers who want to hear explanations of products or have personal counseling sessions seem more at home with the relaxed atmosphere at Biën;. We’re also very pleased that clothing, food, and housing products, which were not available at Bijo;, have triggered the curiosity of our customers and led them to make new discoveries.

–How would you like to further develop the Biën; vision?

Suyama: One of our most recent plans is to add products from the German brand AOIRO to our beauty space. It is a delightful brand that offers aromatherapy and Bespoke perfumes, and I was attracted by their delicate, poetic fragrances and design. The massage sessions offered on the 2nd floor have been well received and we’re planning to further develop a spa service. The location is still to be determined, but we hope to meet the demand next year.

We will nurture “Biën;” as a place to give a voice to leaders, Japanese artists, craftspeople, and the brands who represent their thoughts and to craft. We aim to make Biën; a place of hope for those who create artisanal products in Japan.

The post Biën;— a New Place to Experience J-Beauty in Paris, and a New Challenge for Keiko Suyama, the leading voice of J-Beauty in Europe. appeared first on TOKION - Cutting edge culture and fashion information.

The sixth installment of the series features REY TOKYO, a natural cosmetics brand from Germany lauded by Suyama. The brand was launched in 2020 by Rey Nakajima, a Japanese woman living in Germany. What prompted her to take on a new challenge in the beauty industry was her own skin disorder caused by a change in environment. Self-taught in the development of cosmetics, Nakajima created REY TOKYO by combining ancient wisdom from Japan and the latest technology from Germany. We interviewed Nakajima to uncover the history and concept of REY TOKYO in detail.

The need for skincare products made from natural Japanese ingredients suited to the dry German environment

−−First of all, please tell us a bit about REY TOKYO.

Nakajima: Rooted in the ancient wisdom of Japanese beauty, REY TOKYO’s products are entirely German-made, from development to production. The main ingredients all natural, such as camellia oil and rice bran, which have been used in Japan for centuries, and are made into products using reliable and advanced German technology.

−−What motivated you to establish the brand?

Nakajima: I was born in Tokyo, Japan, and have been living in Germany since 2006. When I first moved here, I was suffering from skin disorders due to work stress, hard water, the dry climate, and a change in diet. The skincare products I brought from Japan were soft and blended very well with my skin, but didn’t replenish enough moisture. The products I bought in Germany, on the other hand, although moisturizing, were greasy and sticky and didn’t blend well with my skin.

So I thought, “What if we made skincare products using traditional, natural Japanese ingredients that could cope with the dry environment of Germany?” That’s how I came up with the idea. Since I had never been involved in the beauty or cosmetics industry, I began researching the commercialization of cosmetics. And then I realized that the series of processes from product planning to manufacturing were similar to those that I had experienced working for a toy manufacturer, and that I could use that experience in the cosmetics industry as well. I had also served as president of a translation and interpretation company after moving to Germany and had seen a wide variety of client business structures of that sort, so I was able to get started in the cosmetics business without hesitation.

I have always loved cosmetics and enjoy trying all different kinds of products. So I didn’t go into it for the purpose of business, entrepreneurship, or profit, but rather with love and curiosity, and that’s what led me to launch REY TOKYO. I’m also very passionate about making things, and a long-held dream of someday producing everything myself was another reason for launching the brand.

−−How did you combine the different beauty cultures of Germany and Japan?

Nakajima: Germany is renowned for its high quality research, development, and technology related to natural and organic cosmetics. In Japan, natural ingredients such as camellia oil and rice have been known to beautify the skin for about a thousand years. Recent studies have also focused on the effects of the ingredients on the skin.

If I were to produce and create a product, I would want do it with a Japanese approach to beauty, so that it could be completed in just a few steps, which would also be in line with the German appreciation for minimalism. My goal was to create a Japanese-German product that would be very skin friendly, using naturally derived ingredients yet allowing the user to feel improvement and change in their skin. By combining traditional Japanese beauty ingredients, simple beauty steps, and the latest German technology, we’ve created a product with what we call “dual energy,” and a sense of on-ko-chi-shin (knowledge and innovation).

−−What are the similarities and differences between German and Japanese attitudes toward beauty?

Nakajima: In Germany, an awareness for self-care has been growing in recent years, as has the market for it. Skincare products with specific purposes, such as anti-aging, sunscreen, and acne prevention, are on the rise. They’re also available at more affordable prices than in Japan. Germany is highly ecologically conscious, so simple and natural packaging designs are preferred.

Originally, many people in Germany didn’t (or didn’t like to) wear makeup, and many didn’t even take care of their skin at all, but liked to tan in the summer. In recent years, however, there has been a new consciousness towards beauty, with more people getting into self-care, especially during the corona pandemic. Consumers highly value the natural, in terms of both themselves and what they buy, so product standards have risen and regulations have become stricter.

One thing that Japan and Germany have in common is a high level of interest in anti-aging. Products that combine both values are on the rise, such as doctor’s cosmetics that make use of natural ingredients but also take dermatological approaches to beautifying the skin.

−−Is J-Beauty becoming popular in Germany, where quality organic cosmetics are widespread?

Nakajima: My personal impression is that in Germany, J-Beauty has not yet attracted much attention. It was only around last year that the term began to be featured in fashion magazines. Beauty ingredients, however, such as seaweed, green tea, yuzu, konjac, camellia oil, and rice bran have already attracted attention, and are being incorporated into skincare products made in Germany. I hope that “J-Beauty” will attract more attention in the future.

“Simplicity and functionality are values shared by both Germany and Japan.”

−−Outside of beauty, are there other aspects of Japanese culture that you have come to appreciate while living in Germany? Conversely, what have you learned from German culture?

Nakajima: I believe that simplicity and functionality are values shared by both Germany and Japan. However, the Japanese aesthetic is unique in that it is not just a matter of cutting down and eliminating, but also of devising and striving for excellence. I try not to lose that delicacy.

I think my approach to communication might have naturally changed while living in Germany. I feel that the flow of “Opinion + Reason = Conclusion,” is rational, easy to harmonize with others, and maybe the fastest way to arrive at a goal.

−−Lastly, please share with us your vision for the future.

Nakajima: We are planning products that are easy to understand and simple in approach, yet multifunctional. We’re also currently participating in the “Bijo; Japanese Beauty Bar” pop-up store at Le Bon Marché in Paris. We would like to expand our sales channels so that we can bring REY TOKYO to more people.

Rey Nakajima
Founder and Director of the natural cosmetics brand REY TOKYO. Born in Tokyo and currently living in Germany. Graduated from Nihon University College of Art. After working for a toy manufacturer in Japan and gaining experience in graphic design, product planning, and development, she moved to Germany in 2006 to work as the president of a translation and interpretation company. Launched REY TOKYO in 2020 in Düsseldorf, Germany.

Keiko Suyama
Born in Tokyo and has lived in Paris for 20 years. She holds an MBA in Brand Management from INSTITUT FRANCAIS DE LA MODE. In 2010, she established Dessigne, a consulting company specializing in brand strategy, sales and communication, from Japan to the European market. In 2016, she started a conceptual project called “Bijo,” curating J-Beauty and lifestyle brands. She has clients in some 150 stores across 20 countries, from major department stores such as Harrods, Le Bon Marché, Ritz Paris, and Sephora.

Direction Keiko Suyama
Translation Elie Inoue

The post J-Beauty Report from Europe Vol.6: REY TOKYO Harmonizes Ancient Japanese Wisdom with the Latest German Technology appeared first on TOKION - Cutting edge culture and fashion information.

“J-Beauty” has been gaining attention in the Western beauty industry. The beauty regimen that symbolizes Japanese beauty, derived from traditionally cultivated aesthetics, concepts and customs, has begun to become a part of the daily lives of people around the world. The new series “J-Beauty report from Europe” introduces the J-Beauty brands, which are gaining popularity in Europe, and digs into the ancient Japanese beauty methods. The series is supervised by Keiko Suyama, the representative of “Dessigne,” who has lived in Paris for over 20 years and consults on expanding Japanese beauty brands into the European market. We explore the Japanese aesthetics from each moment with Suyama, the driving force behind the J-Beauty trend in Europe.

The fourth installment of the series is Raffaella Grisa who established “WA:IT” and a Japanese beauty brand distributor in Italy. “A genuine clean beauty brand inspired by Japanese aesthetics” Suyama explained. Raffaella decided to make a big career change at the age of 50 and convey the philosophy of the Japanese spirit through “WA:IT.” She talked about her spiritual experience at Meiji temple, the aesthetics of J-Beauty, and the aesthetics that she honed through her experience of traveling around the world.

“WA:IT” is a symbiosis of two cultures – Japanese and Italian, an embodiment of a duality of beauty.

――First of all, please tell us about “WA:IT.”

Raffaella Grisa：“WA:IT” is a symbiosis of two cultures – Japanese and Italian, an embodiment of a duality of beauty. From the Italian side, beauty is about life and warmth;  it blooms and flourishes like all living in the summer. This wave of joy conquers us when we sit by a breathtaking Italian seaside, thinking, reflecting, feeling, and gaining a new force to start the creation process.

While in Japan, we cherish things because they cannot last. Just as in nature, seasons change, something is awakened, and something falls asleep. There is this unexpected pleasure in sitting still in the sacred Japanese temple, waiting, smelling, feeling, and falling in love with the world and everything in it.

I had no doubts about the naming of my brand. When I was sitting in front of the immense blue of the Mediterranean sea, two syllables were revealed: WA (peace and harmony in Japanese) and IT (the prefix that identifies Italy, the brand is made in Italy) and as if by magic juxtaposed together they tell the philosophy of the brand: wait, look inside, slow down, take some time for yourself, the colons “:”  between the syllables to emphasize the time slowing down. “WA:IT” reveals the beauty in a body of soul-soothing fragrance and skincare products that reveal one’s true inner beauty on the outside by uniting and balancing the inner and the outer being, like Japanese ‘wa’, and by stimulating the sensory perceptions by breathing ‘it’ in.

――What motivated you to change your career and start this new business which is inspired by J-Beauty?

Raffaella：My journey with “WA:IT” started from my unconscious need to realign the two speeds I was living life. Back then, I tried to be sustainable, slow living, and environmentally conscious in my everyday life while I was always on the airplane at work. The pace was getting faster and faster: my personal and business lifestyle clashed, and I was in the middle. When I made a significant change in my life in 2018 in Tokyo, I knew I needed to make this change for a long time because I wanted to live at just one speed. To have a slow life.

Surrounded by the canopy of greenery within the Meiji temple gardens, I felt a connection with all that was flourishing around me and fell into a deep mediative state that sharpened and cleared my mind, leaving me with a feeling of new strength and a sense of purpose. I became aware that my previous life had come to an end. “WA:IT” was an embryo in my mind, from Japan I brought the awareness of the holistic approach to beauty and the knowledge of unique ingredients most of them unknown in the Western World.

――Despite the fact that each country has its own beauty ritual, why do you think J-Beauty captivates you?

Raffaella：If you are aware of what you are doing, that’s a ritual. And that’s the most important teaching I got from Japanese culture. If you are able to be present here and now, if you love something, and don’t just go through the mechanical gestures of doing it, everything can be transformed into a ritual. In the rush of our modern lives, particularly in Western culture, we tend to do a thing while often only thinking of the next step. One problem with this “next step” perspective is that the very act we’re engaged in at that moment loses its meaningfulness.

――How do you define J-Beauty in your words?

Raffaella：Minimalist-holistic approach to beauty, “Less is more” applies to beauty, where tradition and technology merge perfectly.

From Japan, I gained the consciousness of the meaning of a holistic approach to beauty: food, medicine, and beauty become one concept.

――Have you ever discovered any common or differences between the Italian and Japanese beauty methods?

Raffaella：The Italians have a more “lustful” approach to beauty. If we do not see the results quickly, we suddenly change our beauty routine. A keyword of J-Beauty is prevention, Italian method lays on repairing rather than preventing. While the cleansing step is a focus point for Japanese skincare, the Italian approach sometimes goes straight to the plumping step.

――What do you think is the reason why J-Beauty is so popular now?

Raffaella：Japanese beauty rituals require an effortless approach, leading to an inside-out well-being. Moreover, the minimalism of J-Beauty is in trend with a more conscious and sustainable living

――What feedback have you ever received from your users?

Raffaella：My current customers feel — not just the product in itself, but the philosophy and this connection, the authenticity of the project. They don’t feel it’s a commercial project. It isn’t! And I’m pleased about this because when you decide to change your life at almost 50 years old, you have a profound reason, and solid reason to do that. When other people can understand this and appreciate and catch the meaning of the brand – I’m delighted. I would like to create a very strong community of people who share the same attitude toward life and the same philosophy. Not just beauty in itself.

――Besides beauty rituals, what element of Japanese culture inspires you?

Raffaella：From Japan, I gained the consciousness of the meaning of a holistic approach to beauty: food, medicine, and beauty become one concept. My previous career let me travel to Japan very often. I remember once I had a terrible headache and my Japanese colleague gave me food instead of a pill to heal my pain.  I started studying more about traditional Japanese medicine, originally based on ancient Chinese medicine.  The human body and the mind are inseparable, both physical and mental healing are essential for human health. We are a whole, a perfect balance of body and soul.

That’s why my brand starts with healing the soul with HITO, a natural fragrance conceived by merging the Italian ancient perfumery art with aromatherapy. Then taking care of the soul’s temple with the skin ritual, whose ingredients are based on the Japanese traditional medicine superfood.  

――In the end, please share with us your future vision!

Raffaella：The journey of “WA:IT” is going on: sustainability, minimalism, mindfulness, efficacy, and inclusivity of the values and ethos. Next June, we are launching two new products at the Experience Lab Show in Milan: a travel kit in limited edition, the Italian Sumi-e master Filippo Manassero painted an original sign for our travel kit bag, and the OMNI + serum oil.

Raffaella Grisa
Founder of “WA:IT.” Born in Italy in 1971, she traveled worldwide with her family from an early age. She majored in Management Engineering at Polytechnic of Turin and has built a career as a consultant with an engineering background in Italian companies that exported goods, mostly eastward towards the Far East.
WA:IT

Keiko Suyama
Born in Tokyo and has lived in Paris for 20 years. She holds an MBA in Brand Management from INSTITUT FRANCAIS DE LA MODE. In 2010, she established “Dessigne,” a consulting company specializing in brand strategy, sales and communication, from Japan to the European market. In 2016, a concept project “Bijo;” has started that curates J-Beauty and lifestyle brands. She has clients in about 150 stores in 20 countries, from major department stores such as Harrods, Le Bon Marché, Ritz Paris, Sephora, etc.

Direction Keiko Suyama
Translation Elie Inoue

The post J-Beauty report from Europe Vol.4　 “WA:IT” is a symbiosis of Japanese spirit and Italian culture. appeared first on TOKION - Cutting edge culture and fashion information.

“J-Beauty” has been gaining attention in the Western beauty industry. The beauty regimen that symbolizes Japanese beauty, derived from traditionally cultivated aesthetics, concepts and customs, has begun to become a part of the daily lives of people around the world. The new series “J-Beauty report from Europe” introduces the J-Beauty brands, which are gaining popularity in Europe, and digs into the ancient Japanese beauty methods. The series is supervised by Keiko Suyama, the representative of “Dessigne,” who has lived in Paris for over 20 years and consults on expanding Japanese beauty brands into the European market. We explore the Japanese aesthetics from each moment with Suyama, the driving force behind the J-Beauty trend in Europe.

The third installment of the series is the Dutch e-commerce site “Sterre Rose Beauty,” which specializes in J-Beauty brands. Suyama introduces the founder and director, Sterre Rose Sparreboom, as “an ambassador of J-Beauty in the Netherlands. She is particular about organic and clean products, and regularly holds pop-ups and PR events as well as manages the e-commerce site.” Sterre said she ended up arriving at J-Beauty after years of exploring natural beauty. Through her journey for beauty research in Japan, she was fascinated not only by beauty but also by well-being and philosophy and launched the e-commerce site specializing in J-Beauty to assist in caring for women all over the world. She talked about her discoveries in Okinawa, Japan’s unique aesthetics, and the recent changes in consumers’ wellness awareness.

The holistic approach taken by women in Okinawa is about consistent mindful rituals to nurture oneself.

――First of all, please tell us about “Sterre Rose Beauty.”

Sterre Rose Sparreboom：Sterre Rose Beauty presents a selection of J-Beauty brands, all personally selected based on simplicity, purity, and efficacy––with a focus on natural, sensory care and a mindful and effective routine. We currently represent ten niche J-Beauty brands and offer curated multi-brand beauty sets. Our digital store launched in April 2019 in the Netherlands, and we ship worldwide. Our key priorities are delivering personal service, top-quality natural products, and honest beauty advice.

We also work with beauty salons across Amsterdam, consulting as the exclusive Netherlands distributor for “RUHAKU,” an eco-luxury skincare range from Okinawa, ECOCERT organic certified. This is our best-selling brand and my personal favorite too!

−−What made you interested in J-Beauty?

Sterre：I have always had a passion for natural beauty and holistic skincare and was continuously on the lookout for new ways how to best care for my skin naturally. Back in 2018, I read about the gentle yet effective natural skincare that J-Beauty offered and became interested in trying these products; however, they weren’t available at the time in our market. 

I decided to go on a wellness journey to the Land of the Rising Sun for an immersion into a Japanese beauty. Completing skincare studies, meeting with many J-Beauty brands, and conducting extensive beauty research. My skincare studies in Okinawa, Japan, one of the world’s Blue Zones, renowned for longevity and healthy aging, sparked my passion for Japanese beauty. In Okinawa, I fell in love with the way Japanese women care for their skin. Their holistic approach looks to the skin as the reflection of overall health and is about consistent mindful rituals to nurture oneself.

I learned so much about Japanese skincare and wellness––and how they are intrinsically linked. It became my passion for sharing these healthy natural beauty secrets and helping others find their beauty balance.

−−Each country has its own beauty culture, but why did you choose J-Beauty and the Japanese method?

Sterre：For me, Japanese beauty offers everything I look for in my skin routine: powerful natural ingredients (yuzu, green tea, camellia, rice bran, to name a few) combined with high-tech innovation, hydrating and gentle care,  simple routine, quality performance…

Then the century-old Geisha beauty secrets dating back to the Edo period and holistic philosophy give a profound connection. 

−−Have you ever discovered any common or difference between Dutch and Japanese beauty cultures?

Sterre：Dutch and Japanese beauty cultures are quite different, I would say. One of the similarities is that I feel Dutch women, like Japanese women, prefer simple products that are not too gimmicky. We appreciate a simple routine with influential and trustworthy products. 

One of the main differences is that Japanese beauty culture is more refined. There is a rich and iconic history of beauty tradition. I feel Japanese women are generally more dedicated to beauty rituals and maintaining a consistent routine. There is also a more preventative approach to skin issues; skin protection is an important instilled from an early age.

−−What do you think is the reason why J-Beauty is so popular now?

Sterre：Today, consumers are thinking about wellness more broadly, prioritizing their personal well-being in every aspect of their lives. A health-conscious approach to finding overall harmony and balance, which is connected to J-Beauty.

Consumers move to high-quality, high-performing products–– ‘quality over quantity’ and ‘less is more’ approach. I’m happy to see people demanding that their products are held to a higher standard for their overall health and well-being.

Japanese tradition is to love nature unconditionally, take care of nature continuously, and pass this genuine affection to future generations responsibly.

−−How do you define J-Beauty in your words, which is known as the Japanese style beauty method?

Sterre：J-Beauty is a collective name for the beauty culture, philosophy, rituals, techniques, and products of the Japanese beauty industry. Their refined beauty culture has resulted in top-quality skincare manufactured to the highest beauty standard.

Japanese beauty has a gentle approach to skincare––and is coveted for its hydrating, soothing and calming benefits, suitable for all skin types! Instead of a ten-step process, J-Beauty favors fewer products with active ingredients—just a few high-quality products in four streamlined steps, morning and evening.

−−What kind of feedback do you receive from users?

Sterre：I’m so delighted to receive lots of positive feedback. We have many recurring customers–I notice consumers falling in love with Japanese beauty as much as I did, which gives me a lot of joy. My favorite reviews from one of our customers touched me deeply: “Thank you for your passion for assisting us in caring for ourselves.” This is ultimately why I do what I do!

−−Besides beauty rituals, what element of Japanese culture inspires you?

Sterre：The deep connection with nature inspires me. Japan is considered to have one of the closest, most intimate, and harmonious relationships between humankind and nature in the modern world. It is a well-rooted Japanese tradition to love nature unconditionally, take care of nature continuously, and pass this genuine affection to future generations responsibly.

I’m also very inspired by the Japanese aesthetic principles of Zen. An example is SEIJAKU, meaning tranquility or an energized calm, stillness, solitude. This relates to the feeling you may have when in a Japanese garden. The opposite sense to one expressed by SEIJAKU would be noise and disturbance. How might we bring this feeling of “active calm” and stillness to our life?

−−In the end, please share with us your future vision.

Sterre：We plan to expand our Japanese beauty selection with new product launches and further bring our brand to life through exciting content and experiences (for example, in 2019, we organized a Japanese Beauty Studio event where customers could experience the products and receive on-site beauty treatments and enjoy antioxidant Japanese tea). We also plan to strengthen and grow our B2B partnership network, continuously improve our personal service and add value to the life of our customers.

Most of all, we want to continue helping others find their beauty balance and overall sense of well-being through Japanese beauty philosophy and products.

Sterre Rose Sparreboom
The founder and director of Sterre Rose Beauty.com, a boutique e-commerce site specialized in natural Japanese skincare & wellness brands. She offers a fine selection of organic skincare, aromatherapy, wellness, and holistic beauty products and delivers them to customers around the world.

Photography Nanda Hagenaars

Keiko Suyama
Born in Tokyo and has lived in Paris for 20 years. She holds an MBA in Brand Management from INSTITUT FRANCAIS DE LA MODE. In 2010, she established “Dessigne,” a consulting company specializing in brand strategy, sales and communication, from Japan to the European market. In 2016, a concept project “Bijo;” has started that curates J-Beauty and lifestyle brands. She has clients in about 150 stores in 20 countries, from major department stores such as Harrods, Le Bon Marché, Ritz Paris, Sephora, etc.

Direction Keiko Suyama
Translation Elie Inoue

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“J-Beauty” has been gaining attention in the Western beauty industry. The beauty regimen that symbolizes Japanese beauty, derived from traditionally cultivated aesthetics, concepts and customs, has begun to become a part of the daily lives of people around the world. The new series “J-Beauty report from Europe” introduces the J Beauty brands, which are gaining popularity in Europe, and digs into the ancient Japanese beauty methods. The series is supervised by Keiko Suyama, the representative of “Dessigne,” who has lived in Paris for over 20 years and consults on expanding Japanese beauty brands into the European market. We explore the Japanese aesthetics from each moment with Suyama, the driving force behind the J-Beauty trend in Europe. 

The second installment of the series is “Bizen,” which makes face-wash facial soap using whole grain organic rice, the source of ancient Japanese beauty. Suyama describes the founder, Florence Miette Ishizaka, as “a very intelligent and interesting person with intimate knowledge of French and Japanese cultures.” Florence, a genuine Parisienne, is currently active as a brand strategy consultant, having been executive manager and CEO of major brands such as “Cartier,” “Burberry” and “Lancel.” Launched a made-in-Japan natural skincare brand “Bizen” in 2021. 

 “The alliance of nature and technology was the ideal combination,” she explains a reason to start out the J-Beauty brand with a deep understanding of both Japanese and French cultures. We asked her, who lives between Japan and Europe and continues to develop her multifaceted perspective, about Japanese culture, spirituality and J-Beauty trend.

“Bizen” products pack the power of rice amplified by fermentation.

――First of all, please tell us about “Bizen.”

Florence Miette Ishizaka：“Bizen” is a natural skincare brand made in Japan. BIZEN in Japanese means “total” or “holistic” beauty in reference to the Japanese holistic approach to both inner and outer beauty. The products are made with fermented rice; an ancestral source of health and beauty in Japan. The rice fermentation process brings out precious natural active ingredients like amino acids, ceramides and fibers that hydrate and protect the skin as well as address signs of aging. There is no harmful ingredient in the products since its formulae contain only ingredients with natural origin. In addition, the brand is committed to revitalizing the Japanese countryside by re-cultivating fallow rice fields. “Bizen” wholegrain rice has been certified organic is grown in exclusive rice fields within a circular and sustainable economy.

――You had a career with a significant European brands. How come you launch “Bizen” with the theme of J-Beauty?

Florence：My objective in starting “Bizen” was to introduce Japanese culture to the world. One of the characteristics of Japanese culture is its strong connection to nature and constant search for innovation. J-Beauty, the alliance of nature and technology, was ideal combination for me. “Bizen” products pack the power of rice amplified by fermentation.

――How do you define J-Beauty in your words, which is known as the Japanese style beauty method?

Florence：J-Beauty combines the treasures of nature with technology. For me, this is the very essence of Japanese beauty. The rigor of the rituals is also one vital characteristic of J-Beauty with preventive care, cleansing, protection. Preventing rather than repairing is the primary objective of skincare in Japan. This approach goes hand in hand with the acceptance of imperfections. In Japan, this is called “Wabi-Sabi.” It appreciates beauty in its imperfection and a possible path to serenity. The patina of time and imperfection make people and things more beautiful. We must therefore take great care of them. For example, the double cleansing with oil and foam is a wonderful part of the J-Beauty ritual, which we will launch this year at “Bizen.”

――From your point of view of knowing the European market, what do you think is the reason why J-Beauty is so popular now?

Florence：Japan has been continuously attractive to Europeans with its strong values. Japanese beauty rituals are about minimalism, softness, respect for the skin and the environment, which are contemporary and timeless values. Moreover, the mix of ultra-technology and natural ingredients and the idea of inner beauty resonate with millennials. In a society concerned with wellness and prevention, the holistic approach that has been at the heart of Japanese culture for ages is naturally coming to the forefront.

――I bet that wipes and milky cleansing are the mainstream in France. What kind of feedback do you receive from users regarding the foamy type “Bizen” face-wash soap?

Florence：Our users, mainly Parisians (women and men), love the hydration power of our product as well as the pleasure of use. Our soap produces a very generous amount of soft foam. They also like the aesthetic of our packaging, inspired by traditional Japanese rice packages.

The idea of enjoying the “moment” of Japan is the source of inspiration

――Besides beauty rituals, what element of Japanese culture inspires you?

Florence：Japan is a country with a long history and a unique relationship with time. Temples date back more than a thousand years. On the other hand, life is compared to cherry blossoms that last only a moment. Enjoying the moment is essential because the ephemeral brings us closer to eternity. This is a great source of inspiration for me. In today’s digital world, this timeless approach that Japan respects resonates with people who seek balance in their daily lives. Using century-old beauty ingredients that have stood the test of time is a way to connect with the past and the present.

――In the end, please share with us your future vision.

Florence：My vision is to bring our customers, through “Bizen,” a sense of serenity through micro-moments with themselves. There are many treasures of Japanese beauty and stories that have the potential to bring this experience, and I would like to share them with our users.。

Florence Miette Ishizaka

A specialist in luxury brand management in international markets. She has worked for global maisons like “Cartier,” ”Burberry,” and ”Lancel” in various positions including head of Japan subsidiary and marketing and product manager. She is currently a brand strategy consultant and supports Japanese brands in their development in Europe. In 2021, she launched her own brand ”Bizen” in Paris.
www.bizen.paris

Keiko Suyama

Born in Tokyo and has lived in Paris for 20 years. She holds an MBA in Brand Management from INSTITUT FRANCAIS DE LA MODE. In 2010, she established “Dessigne,” a consulting company specializing in brand strategy, sales and communication, from Japan to the European market. In 2016, a concept project “Bijo;” has started that curates J-Beauty and lifestyle brands. She has clients in about 150 stores in 20 countries, from major department stores such as Harrods, Le Bon Marché, Ritz Paris, Sephora, etc.

Direction Keiko Suyama
Translation Elie Inoue

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“Aroma Zone”, an organic cosmetics brand is founded 20 years ago by chemist Pierre Vausselin, has a wide selection of products such as undiluted solution, high-concentration vegetable oil, essential oil, and plant powder, and proposes DIY skincare

to combines them that you create yourself along with your skin condition. Although they have a policy of not advertising at all from the beginning, it continues to grow year by year due to growing consumer interest in organic products, DIY ideas, and products at a low price of 3.5 euros. In 2019, sales reached 80 million euros, this year, sales are expected to exceed 100 million euros, and the gross profit margin is expected to be about 25%. It currently has two stores in Paris, one in Lyon, and a new store over 700m2 opened in Bouches-du-Rhone at the end of July. They sold online during the lockdown period (April to May), and their products with high disinfection effect were popular mainly such as tea tree, garlic, thyme essential oils and DIY cosmetic kits and household cleaning. The company said that sales are increased 70% for cosmetics, 40% for essential oils. “Consumers will retain the new lifestyle they’ve gained during lockdown for a long time,” Vausselin anticipates further business growth. In the future, there are plans to open a new store in Toulouse and another store overseas.

DIY skincare advocated by “Aroma Zone” is now becoming a significant trend in the beauty industry in Europe and America. “The Ordinary” from Canada, which was founded in 2016, also has an extensive lineup of undiluted solution and concentrated beauty ingredients made based on clinical technology. Each product is labeled with its components in detail, vegan prescription, and cruelty-free, which show skin safety and environment-friendly. Their low price range, the serum is from 5 euros, is attractive for a wide age range from young people who make their skincare debut to middle-aged who want to focus on aging care. It is possible to use the product as it is, but they propose DIY to mixi them in accordance with the condition and skin troubles.

“Typology,” which was born last year, is also in the spotlight in France. They are developing skincare, body, and hair products by keeping the number of ingredients in each product to 10 or less based on organic, vegan prescription, cruelty-free, 100% made in France, which is highly transparent and clean raw material. The hair shampoo I purchased had a base shampoo and hair oil separated, so that hair oil could be used for scalp massage or mixed with a base shampoo and customized in my way. Their serum is from10 euros and priced at the same level as “The Ordinary.” Also, these brands have in common that they use recyclable glass and plastic-free aluminum in their packaging.

“DIY skincare is the destination by natural beauty, organic, and clean beauty.” Yoshiko Suyama explained what kind of consumer consciousness is behind the rise of DIY skincare trend in the beauty trend, who has been living in France for 20 years, runs a beauty and design consulting company “Dessigns” in Paris. “I think DIY skincare is the ultimate in having clean ingredients in Europe, where transparency of products is valued significantly more and more. Consumers have begun to understand that even if they purchase products contain many ingredients such as rich serum or cream, few of ingredients effect the skin and that there is not much they need. They understand from various information that it is more effective and better to use the necessary ingredients in undiluted solution than various ingredients. In the end, the idea pushes them to have a strong desire to check all the content components by themself and make and use only the necessary ones.”

She is the head of the project “Bijo;”, which has the theme of Japanese beauty culture and products, and has been holding pop-up stores in Paris since 2016. In particular, the pop-up store held at the luxury department store Le Bon Marché is always thriving. At the third pop-up store opened in July-August after the lockdown, sales increased 10% compared to the same period last year, despite a significant decrease in the number of tourists. Before the event, a buyer from Le Bon Marché asked her to focus on healing the mind and body for French customers by Japanese beauty and hospitality. She said  that the body care series of “Uka”, which is based on the aroma with a high healing effect that acts on the autonomic nerves, became a best-selling product as customers responded, “I need this right now.” She also told me that 100 pieces of scalp brushes, 200 pieces of face cassa, and 600 pieces of face masks were sold out, and the sales of high-grade body brushes and purification goods increased. “There were many French people who were very interested in protection and purification, and changed their minds through scents. I feel that there is a consciousness of investing in themself and valuing their own time.”

Furthermore, she said, “Because of the pandemic and unstable social situation, a beauty routine would be a major factor that supports our minds. If you give up the beauty routine, surreal cruel reality comes up. I think the beauty routine is the act of adjusting your mind and looking at yourself.” There is a history that even during World War II, women increased their awareness of beauty by putting on perms and makeup. It seems that spending money and time on beauty is functioning as a source of mind for survival in an uncertain future.

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